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All About Microneedling

If you know me at all, you know by now microneedling is my all-time favorite treatment.

Microneedling is as simple as it sounds: we insert tiny needles to induce micro-injuries on the skin to stimulate the body’s wound healing process to boost collagen and elastin. The boost in collagen and elastin is the perfect treatment for so many skin concerns: acne scarring, fine lines and wrinkles, loose skin, skin texture, pore sizes and hyperpigmentation.

I love seeing my patients walk out of microneedling treatments with plump, radiant skin that’s healed naturally through the body’s own mechanisms.

The Skinny on Microneedling

While microneedling has recently hit the mainstream due to new technology advancements, the treatment actually dates back to the 1980s when dermatologist Dr. Phillippe Simonin found that facelift patients who had undergone camouflage tattooing after surgery to hide scars showed substantial improvement in how their scars appeared. In the 1990s, dermatologists further proved the relationship between the tattoo process using needles and scar improvement. Needless to say, it’s a tried-and-true method.

A Breakdown of the Process

It can get a bit technical, but as I mentioned, microneedling is the process of using a pen-like tool (I use the Collagen P.I.N., which has a 36-needle cartridge and an adjustable needle depth of up to 3.0mm). The needles create small dermal punctures that signal your brain to repair the injured skin This signal kickstarts a healing process that ultimately results in: cell turnover that creates new capillaries and reduces the appearance of scarring; and increased collagen and elastin production in the dermal layer of skin.

The Benefits of Microneedling

Without getting too deep in the nitty gritty science, microneedling ultimately breaks down to two major benefits:

1. It encourages your body to produce collagen and elastin.

As we age, we naturally produce less elastin and hyaluronic acid, and we begin to lose our collagen by up to 50%. Hello, wrinkles and saggy skin.

When microneedles are inserted into the skin, the brain signals to the skin to produce more collagen and elastin as a repair and protection mechanism. A 2008 study revealed that skin treated with four microneedling sessions spaced one month apart actually produced up to a 400% increase in collagen and elastin six months after completing the treatment. Even better, collagen growth can also reverse sun damage and discoloration and plump up the skin around pores so that they appear shrunken. Instead of welcoming in wrinkles, hello elastic, rejuvenated, even and full skin!

2. It opens up the skin to allow better penetration of products.

Not only does microneedling boost collagen and elastin production, it also opens up the skin to allow topical products, like Vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, to penetrate deeper and work more effectively. Products like these are critical to maintaining collagen production and targeting cells that affect skin pigmentation. This is how microneedling ultimately can affect acne scarring and hyperpigmentation.

When your products work better, your skin looks better.

The Microneedling Process

Microneedling can look and sound scary (no one loves needles!), but the process is actually minimally invasive and practically painless.


As long as you don’t have any previous issues with healing or any active lesions or infection, you can receive this treatment. Just be sure to use SPF and moisturizer in the days leading up to the service (which I always recommend!).


Prior to the treatment, you will be provided with a topical numbing. Once the agent has been applied, most people feel little to no pain during the brief treatment. The punctures are just tiny pin-pricks.

Microneedling is most popular performed on the skin on the face, neck, decolletage and hands. But, I also microneedle on arms, legs, stretch marks, abdomens and backs.

post treatment protocol


Most patients experience a bit of redness and swelling following the treatment, as well as some areas of “bronzing” where the skin can darken, dry and slough off.

Once this all subsides, you’ll notice a dewy, glowing complexion. I call it the “day 10 glow."

After the treatment, you should avoid excessive sun exposure for 72 hours and any exercise for the first 12 hours to prevent additional inflammation and discomfort. I encourage my clients to stick with the Post Treatment Protocol for the 4 days of downtime following treatment. This protocol contains clean, paraben-free, dimethicone-free, fragrance/dye-free products that will ensure quick healing with great results. On day 5, normal makeup and skincare routines can be resumed. Mineral makeup can be used if necessary before this time.

When should I go back for round two?

Recovery between sessions typically is at least one month (considerably less than fractional laser treatments).

If you’re between ages 25-35, dermatologists recommend 2-3 treatments per year. Following this age range, dermatologists recommend 3-4 treatments per year.

The Point of It All

Ultimately, nothing beats microneedling. The combination of ongoing wound healing and new product penetration regenerates the skin and ultimately creates a fresher, smoother face like no other treatment can. So, if you’re not on the microneedling train, hop on!

Dr. Zoe

Book your microneedling service with me today.

Perfect Face Aesthetic Medicine

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